Best Home:

An apartment is fine as long as the dog is exercised daily. Bear in mind that this breed can bark LOUDLY. 
The owner of a Dachshund should be a consistent, patient leader who desires a small, active, personable breed. Children are okay provided they are considerate and are not allowed to roughhouse with the dog. The Dachshund requires firm training and socialization from the start, so make sure you have the time.
DON"T  overly spoil your Dachshund. Spoiled dogs think they are in charge. The elderly and the disabled can own this breed provided they are able to train and exercise it.

Description: 

There are three varieties of dachshund: the short haired, the wired haired, and the long haired.  With each of these varieties there are three sizes.  The dachshund is an elongated, vigorous, muscular dog with short legs.  It carries itself proudly and has an intelligent expression.  It has an elongated head and a slight convex skull, arched and protruding eyebrows, a long muzzle, robust jaws with non pendent lips, and a pinchers or scissors bite with extremely strong canine teeth (Dachshunds usually have 42 teeth).  Its eyes are oval, dark red or brown black with an energetic and friendly expression.  Its ears are mobile and hanging long on its cheeks.  Its body should have a strong protruding sternum and a moderately retracted abdomen.  Its tail is carried in line with its back.  The short haired dachshund's coat should be shiny, sleek and uniform.  Solid colored dachshunds may be tan or yellow.  Bi-color dachshunds may be deep black, brown, or gray with areas of b right chestnut.  There are also speckle-streaked, or harlequin varieties. 

Training

Housebreaking:

Is probably the biggest concern for new puppy owners.  There are several methods, but most people find that "Crate Training" is an easy, effective method of housebreaking.

Chewing:

Is another concern for new puppy owners.  Several tips are below.

	The simplest thing to do is to firmly say "NO" when the puppy is chewing on an inappropriate item - your shoes, or your fingers!  Then, give the puppy an appropriate object to chew.
	You will find that his favorite unacceptable things will smell like you - your socks, gloves, shoes, and underwear.  Be sure to keep clothing and shoes out of reach.
	It is common for people to give their puppy a large assortment of toys, BUT, that actually confuses the pup.  He cannot be expected to tell the difference between his 20 acceptable items, and your inappropriate things.  Give the pup one or two good chewing items, no more.  Then, he'll easily learn that the ONLY things he can chew are those items.  Once he's learned that lesson, you can begin to give more chew toys, but never more than once or twice a week.
	Sewn rope toys are excellent chews - they can be easily washed when soiled, and are very satisfying to chew.  They work beautifully when the pup is teething, because the baby teeth get lodged in the rope.  If your pup won't chew a rope toy, let it sit overnight in a bag of treats or food to give it an interesting smell.  When the rope toy is getting dirty or smelly, it can be thrown in the washer!
	Most rawhide chews are not a good idea - they can be swallowed in large pieces that can then block the intestines.  The rawhide chews that are processed (Roarhide, by Nylabone, for example) are a good product, since the pup will chew off pieces that are too tiny to cause trouble.   Crate Training There are many methods of housebreaking.  Crate Training is one of the easiest methods of housebreaking for the puppy and the new owner.  The concept is simple - when you cannot be directly supervising the puppy, he is placed in a crate.  When you use a crate, you prevent undisciplined "accidents" from occurring.  The simple act of going potty creates pleasure for the puppy - he is no longer uncomfortable, so in effect, he is praising himself, whether he goes outside appropriately, or on the carpeting.  So, by preventing the accidents, you increase the number of times the puppy goes in the appropriate place, and the puppy thus learns very quickly.  Add a food treat when the puppy performs properly outside, and housebreaking is usually accomplished in a matter of days to weeks! Dogs are den animals and resist soiling their bed.  The crate becomes the puppy's den.  Most puppies will become very comfortable in their crate, and when older, will seek it out when they want to get away from bothersome toddlers.  Obviously, your puppy will soil his bed if you go too long between outings. Some novice dog owners are concerned about using a crate.  This method does not advocate using the kennel for long periods of time, or limiting the time outside the kennel.  It should be used whenever the puppy cannot be closely supervised.  And, puppies need an enormous amount of sleep, which is best done in the kennel, so you don't have to worry about the puppy waking and going potty inappropriately, or worse yet, chewing an appliance cord!  Experienced dog owners know that this method is really a kindness, because it limits reprimands and really speeds the housebreaking process. Most puppies are fairly well housebroken within a few weeks. Success does depend somewhat upon your schedule because until about 6 months of age, the puppy's physical capacity to hold for a very extended period is limited.  Be fair, and as he grows older, he'll be able to contain himself for longer periods and the necessary outings will be reduced to around four to six a day, but let him work slowly to that. When you first get your puppy, he will likely resist being put in the crate.  He has just been taken from his familiar people, siblings, and surroundings, and has likely already begun to bond with you.  He will seek comfort from you.  If you take the puppy out of the crate when he cries, he will quickly learn that when he cries, you will take him out.  Worse yet, if he cries for 3 hours and THEN you give in, he'll learn the unfortunate lesson that if he cries for THREE HOURS, you will take him out.  So, for the first few days, it is best to use a rather large crate, bedded with shredded paper, a towel at one end, and food and water.  This way, if the puppy is doing alot of crying, you won't be tempted to take him out to tend to his physical needs.  The puppy will cease crying in a short time (or sometimes a long time.)  Be tough, it will pay off later.  As soon as the puppy stops crying, take him out.  He'll learn that if he's quiet, he can come out.  (Obviously, if it's nighttime, and he's asleep, let him sleep!) If the puppy has been in his crate quiet, or sleeping for some time, and then whimpers or cries, it's likely that he needs to go potty.  Take him out. Puppies need to go potty at predictable times All puppies will need to go potty directly after waking up. They need to go potty during and after exercise periods.  When you are playing actively with the puppy, watch for circling and sniffing behavior which signals he needs to go outside. He will also need to go potty right after eating and drinking and perhaps 10 to 30 minutes later, as feeding stimulates the entire digestive system. Basically, in order to easily housebreak your puppy, you need to develop a schedule that works for you and your puppy.  One such schedule follows: You wake up in the morning and immediately let the puppy out.  This means before dressing, before making coffee, and before you tend you YOUR immediate needs.  Stay with him and repeat "GO POTTY" or whatever command you prefer to use.  While the puppy is going potty, quietly praise the puppy (by voice) and when the pup is done, vigorously praise the puppy - a treat works well here.  Go into the house. Feed and water the puppy.  Watch him eat.  Some puppies will suddenly stop eating and need to go outside again.  When the puppy is done eating, pick up the food and go outside with him and repeat the "GO POTTY" procedure above.  Go back into the house.  Remember to take him out again 10-30 minutes later. Play with the puppy or put him back in his crate.  Do not allow the puppy to wander around the house unsupervised.  You do not want him to soil in the house without receiving discipline.  If he is allowed to, this may develop into a habit that will be difficult to break. If you catch the puppy in the act of soiling in the house, mildly chastise him, carry him back out to the place you have selected outside for his bathroom. Continue through the day with this routine. Other important notes: At feeding times, remember to pick up the food when he is finished eating.  If you allow the puppy to eat free choice, whenever he wishes, he will be more apt to have accidents in the house because he will need to go out at unpredictable times. Outside excursions should be only to go potty in the early days until he is housebroken.  Otherwise he will be confused and think that outside means playtime.  Playing should be done in the house. Water should be provided free choice in the home, or frequently during the day. At night, be kind to the puppy and remove the water about two hours before you go to bed.  In the early days, you may need to take the puppy out in the middle of the night until he develops the capacity to go all night.  If you place the puppy's crate next to the bed, you can be alert for restless behavior signaling his need to go out. We recommend that you do not leave food or water in the crate when the puppy is confined, either during the day or at night.  The exception to this would be if you work all day, and no-one is available to feed or water or exercise the puppy.  In this case, it works best to give the puppy a large enclosure about 3 by 3 feet, with food and water provided.  Use shredded paper for the floor, and lay a thick towel for the pup to use as a bed, near the food and water.  The puppy will use the other end of the enclosure as his potty area.  A very large kennel or a playpen also work well for this method. Water should be provided free choice in the home, or frequently during the day.  Remember that until the puppy is six months old or so, he will need to drink more water than he will as an older dog, because puppy kidneys are less efficient, and more water is needed to flush the poisons out of the bloodstream.  More water in means more water out! Remember that what goes in must go out!  If you have removed the water the night before, your puppy or older dog will be thirsty when you wake up.  If you allow unlimited water in the morning upon waking up, you will need to be prepared for many outings.  You might want to leave the puppy out for a few hours (only if it is old enough) or plan to get him out at least every 30-60 minutes for the first two hours or so.  An alternative would be to give him a good amount of water, roughly half of what he would drink if allowed free access to water.  Then, two hours later, give him more, maybe free access for the remainder of the day. A young dog less than 6 months old or so, does not realize that he needs to go potty until it is almost too late - like a two year old child that doesn't tell you he needs to go until it is an emergency. You will see, as the puppy learns, that accidents tend to happen near the door.  This is a good sign.  Some dogs or puppies will tend to pace in front of the door, maybe only once or twice before they have the accident.  One trick you can use is to put a bell on the collar and listen for it near the door.  The dog can also be taught to ring a bell hung on the door knob. If your puppy or adult dog has been out for some time, and you brin him in, he should go back out about 10 minutes after he comes in.  It is so easy to assume that since he's been out for a long time, that his bladder should be empty.  But, how was he to know that you were going to bring him in?  Maybe he hasn't gone for a while.  Remember to send him out again for another try, or if he knows the command "go potty," make sure he goes potty before you go in. A leash or pet gate, are excellent tools to housebreak an older dog.  It is recommended, though, that you use a crate when you are unable to watch the dog, or if you need to leave.  Because an older dog will feel more secure, he will be apt to roam through the house.  This can be limited either using a leash or a good pet gate.  Allow the dog about 10 feet of leash, and at first, keep the leash attached to you.  After some days or weeks, begin to allow the dog to drag the leash around, but keep the dog within the same room with you.  You can allow the dog earned freedom.  Don't allow him to wander, because un-reprimanded mistakes will become habit.  Older dogs can be very easy to housebreak, providing that you are very conscientious about limiting freedom until the time has come that you can trust the dog.  An older dog (older than 10 months) has the physical ability to go for longer periods of time between outings.  An older dog will be fine fed twice a day.